Preorders are closed for the rest of 2021. Next preorder opens on 1/2/2022.

PhDetour Fabric Bases: An Overview

I am putting this in writing to hold myself accountable--the list of fabric bases offered at PhDetour is complete. Say it with me, NO MORE FABRIC BASES, ALI!! (at least for a few months :P)

Okay, now that we got that out of the way, let's talk about all the amazing fabric bases that are available to you in the PhDetour preorders. Friendly reminder that you can now place preorders at ANY TIME here.

Preorders are submitted for printing every Sunday evening, and the TAT is 5-6 weeks from the day the order is submitted. 

PhDetour Fabric and Price List

Luxe PUL: The Luxe PUL is a water-resistant fabric that is very frequently used in cloth diapers and other reusable cloth goods. The Luxe PUL is comprised of polyester interlock, digitally printed with a cute design or color, that is adhered to a 1mil TPU film with a PUR hot melt adhesive. The Luxe PUL is thinner and stretchier (2-way horizontal stretch) than the Classic PUL. It is great for diapers, (especially newborn diapers), "waterproof" clothing items, menstrual pads, snack bags, bowl covers, etc. It is 160gsm and made from 100% polyester and 1mil TPU.

Luxe PUL in Chickens Print 

Classic PUL: The Classic PUL is a water-resistant fabric that is very frequently used in cloth diapers and other reusable cloth goods. The Classic PUL is comprised of polyester interlock, digitally printed with a cute design or color, that is adhered to a 2mil TPU film with a PUR hot melt adhesive. The Classic PUL is more structured and less stretchy than the Luxe PUL. It is great for diapers, wet bags, diaper pail liners, snack bags, bowl covers, bags, etc. It is 160gsm and made from 100% polyester and 2mil TPU.

Classic PUL

Stack of diapers made with Classic PUL, made and photographed by Lyndsi Leon of Little Leon Co. 

Here is a graphic that compares and contrasts the Luxe PUL and the Classic PUL

Comparison of Luxe PUL and Classic PUL

Athletic Wicking Jersey (AWJ): AWJ is a fabric with stay-dry properties, meaning it is designed to "wick" the moisture away from the wearer. As such, it is a very popular fabric choice for the inside of cloth diapers, the tops of cloth diaper inserts and reusable menstrual pads, and athletic wear (e.g., gym shorts, workout tanks, etc). It is 140gsm, 100% polyester, and has two-way horizontal stretch. AWJ is a light-weight, super smooth, slinkier fabric that is cool to the touch and has a dimpled texture.

Athletic Wicking Jersey

Athletic Wicking Jersey. Photo courtesy of MJ Maier of Atelier Koch.

Ribbing: Ribbing is technically a 1x1 cotton/lycra rib knit. PhDetour ribbing is made of 95% cotton and 5% Lycra, and it is 250gsm. It offers four-way stretch. Ribbing is, in my opinion, the best choice for neck bands, arm bands, waist bands, and cuffs. It is stretchy, but has excellent recovery. It has a tiny ribbed texture, which makes it quite pliable. It has sufficient weight to be quite easy to work with, and due to its texture, can be eased into curves without struggle. I personally wouldn't recommend ribbing for entire garments, such as pants or tops--if you are looking for a rib knit for an entire garment, I would recommend instead our "wide rib knit" below.

Lighter Weight Cotton Lycra (CL): Our lighter weight cotton lycra is made of 95% cotton and 5% Lycra, and it is 220gsm. The 220gsm CL is a versatile fabric base, great for lots of different uses, and one of the most popular fabric bases for children's clothing. It is a knit fabric with four way stretch and very good recovery. It is breathable and easy to work with. A great fabric base to learn with if you are just starting out! Although a natural fiber, my manufacturer's use of reactive dyes and specialized pre-treatment and post-treatment processes results in bright, vivid colors that are resistant to fading.

Bomb Pops in 220gsm Cotton Lycra

Medium/Heavy Weight Organic Cotton Lycra (CL): Our medium/heavy weight organic cotton lycra is made of 95% organic cotton and 5% Lycra, and it is 250gsm. It is a bit heavier than the 220gsm CL, and conveys a feeling of quality! The organic CL is a popular option among several small shop owners whose customers prefer an organic fabric option. The organic CL is a versatile fabric base, great for lots of different uses, and a popular fabric base for children's clothing. It is a knit fabric with four way stretch and very good recovery. It is breathable and easy to work with. A great fabric base to learn with if you are just starting out! Although a natural fiber, my manufacturer's use of reactive dyes and specialized pre-treatment and post-treatment processes results in bright, vivid colors that are resistant to fading.

Organic CL Pic

Preflat diapers made with 250gsm Organic Cotton Lycra. Made and photographed by Nicole McCormick of McCozy Bottoms

 

Wide Rib Knit: Our wide rib knit is a 2x1 rib knit made of 95% cotton and 5% Lycra. It is 250gsm and offers four-way stretch (generous horizontal stretch and moderate vertical stretch). It's wide, vertical "ribs" are conspicuously visible, giving the fabric its signature look. Wide rib knit is a popular option for children's clothing, especially pajamas. It is soft, stretchy, and has great recovery. Although a natural fiber, my manufacturer's use of reactive dyes and specialized pre-treatment and post-treatment processes results in bright, vivid colors that are resistant to fading.

Wide Rib Knit

Swim: PhDetour Swim is a slinky, silky, and super stretchy fabric that is used for swimwear and dance wear. Our swim is UPF 50+ rated (like SPF, but for fabric), made of 88% polyester and 12% Lycra, and is 210gsm. It offers generous 4-way stretch and amazing recovery--it snaps right back into place after being stretched. Swim is excellent for swim wear, but it should not be confused with our boardshort fabrics, which are different types of swim fabrics and typically used for swim trunks, shorts, etc. Swim is an excellent option for rash guards and swim tops for children and adults alike. 

Swim Pics

PhDetour Swim used in Solar Sundress. Made, photographed, and modeled by Jaclyn Bruner of Connect the Dots Customs.

Athletic Knit: The Athletic Knit is a great option for yoga pants, workout tights/leggings/capris etc. It is 300gsm, so it is a medium/heavy weight fabric that is made of 95% polyester and 5% Lycra. It has moderate, four-way stretch, and a smooth texture that is designed to hug the wearer. Very easy to work with--sews and serges up like a dream!

Boardshort: Boardshort fabric is often referred to as "the other swim fabric." Boardshort fabric is a woven fabric made of 100% polyester microfiber. It is thin (125gsm), but sturdy, and has no stretch. It has a soft, brushed surface, and it is a very popular option for swim trunks and shorts.

Stretchy Boardshort: PhDetour is SO excited to announce that in addition to our Boardshort fabric, we are now also offering * S T R E T C H Y * Boardshort fabric. Stretchy Boardshort fabric is a polyester microfiber, but it also contains Lycra, which gives it a bit of stretch and classifies this fabric as a "stretch woven." A great option for those who love the feel of boardshort, but want a bit of give. With 7% Lycra (93% polyester), this fabric makes for a quite comfortable pair of swim trunks or shorts.

Minky: Minky...ahh...most sewists have a love/hate relationship with Minky. It is oh so soft and a great option for children's blankets, but SO. MUCH. FLUFF. Whenever I cut minky in my studio, a thick layer of minky lint covers me and everything in a 4' radius. Now that I've warned you, minky is very often used for blankets and "plushies" (super soft stuffed animals). It has very minimal two way stretch (if you're looking for minky with stretch, you are looking for Squish), and it is made from 100% polyester. Only the printed right side of the fabric is soft--the back is not. For blankets, minky is typically backed with a soft fabric like fleece. It is not considered a breathable fabric, so it is not recommended for newborns or babies (until they can regulate their own body temperatures). 

Laminated Minky: Laminated minky is simply minky (see above) with a layer of 2mil TPU adhered to the back of it, which makes it a "waterproof" (really, very water resistant) fabric. Laminated minky is an excellent option for changing pad covers or novelty diapers. Fiber content is 100% polyester and laminated with a 2mil TPU film. 

Squish: Squish is, quite simply, stretchy minky. It is super soft and plush on both sides of the fabric, and has great four-way stretch, which makes it an option for the *softest* clothing (hoodies, pajama pants, etc...). Squish is made from 95% polyester and 5% lycra, and like minky, should not be used on newborns or young babies (until they can regulate their body temperature) because it is not very breathable. 

Cotton French Terry: The Cotton French Terry (often abbreviated as CFT) is the thickest of the three French Terry fabrics I carry. It is excellent for hoodies, sweatshirts, sweatpants, and other cold weather apparel. It is not as soft as the bamboo blended French Terry, but has the great structure you want in heavier duty garments. CFT is 300gsm and composed of 95% cotton and 5% Lycra. It has 4-way stretch. Like the other natural and organic fabric bases I carry, the CFT is printed with reactive dyes and undergoes specialized pre-printing and post-printing treatment processes to lock in the deep, vivid colors and prevent fading. 

Bamboo French Terry: The Bamboo French Terry (often abbreviated as BFT) is the most delicate of the three French Terry fabrics I carry. It is super soft, and almost silky feeling. It is 280 gsm and composed of 95% Bamboo and 5% Lycra. BFT has four-way stretch, and it is a great option of all-weather clothing--dresses, tops, shorts, sweatshirts, bathrobes...so many potential uses! Recovery on all FTs is moderate--I definitely would not recommend BFT for anything like leggings, and I wouldn't recommend it for preflats either. Because it is on the delicate side, I don't think it would stand up to the wear and tear from the snappis. 

Bamboo/Cotton French Terry: The Bamboo/Cotton French Terry (BCFT) is my middle of the road, good for almost everything French Terry. It is composed of 65% Bamboo, 30% Cotton, and 5% Lycra, the perfect balance of structure and softness. BCFT has four-way stretch and is a very popular option for preflats. Excellent option for cooler weather clothing for all ages.

Preflat made of bamboo cotton french terry

Bamboo Lycra: Bamboo Lycra (BL) is a very thin, yet strong fabric. It is 250gsm, composed of 95% Bamboo and 5% Lycra, and has generous four-way stretch with very good recovery. Bamboo Lycra is drapey and slinky and an excellent fabric choice for warm weather climates. If a pattern calls for a drapey knit, bamboo lycra (or it's close relation bamboo/cotton jersey!) is what you're looking for!

Bubble Romper in Double Brushed Polyester

Bamboo/Cotton Jersey: Bamboo/Cotton Jersey (BCJ) is similar to Bamboo Lycra in feel and application, however it is a bit more structured because of the addition of cotton in the fiber blend (65% Bamboo, 30% Cotton, and 5% Lycra). For this same reason, it also feels a bit more soft and less silky than the Bamboo Lycra. The four-way stretch, recovery, and drape are all quite similar, as is the breathability. An excellent option for all ages, newborn-adulthood.

Napa romper made with Bamboo Cotton Jersey

Bamboo/Cotton Muslin: Bamboo/Cotton Muslin is a woven fabric composed of 70% Bamboo and 30% Cotton. Since it is woven, it has no stretch. It is one of the most popular fabrics for swaddle blankets. Super breathable (so safe for use with newborns) and lightweight (125gsm). It has a signature, slightly crinkled texture that gets softer and more voluminous with every wash. Not intended to be ironed. Great for the right dress pattern too! Note that due to the loose weave and delicate nature of this fabric, inks tend to print noticeably lighter than on other fabrics. 

Bamboo/Cotton Muslin

Cotton Poplin: Poplin is a lightweight, woven fabric, which means it has no stretch. Poplin is made from 100% cotton and is 130gsm. Poplin is an excellent option for warm weather clothing for adults and children alike. It is soft and breathable, and more structured as opposed to drapey. Great for dress shirts (i.e., button-downs). 

Poplin Dress

Organic Cotton Poplin: The Organic Cotton Poplin is indistinguishable from the Poplin described above. My manufacturer/printer has to label them for me because I can't tell the difference based on look and feel alone. The only difference between the two is that the Organic Cotton Poplin is made with 100% organic cotton, while the Poplin is made from 100% cotton. Great for dress shirts (i.e., button-downs) and other warm-weather clothing that is intended to be made with structured, woven fabrics.

Heavy Cotton Poplin: The Heavy Cotton Poplin is a medium-weight, woven fabric that has no stretch. It is made of 100% cotton and is 150gsm. It is a great option for both warm weather and cooler weather clothing. Great for shirts, dresses, rompers, etc for all ages. It is soft and breathable, and definitely on the more structured (as opposed to drapey) side. This is also quite comparable to higher-end quilting cotton for all you quilters out there. 

Cotton Twill: The Cotton Twill is a medium-weight woven fabric made of 100% cotton that has no stretch. Its texture is visually different from poplin--while poplin has a square weave, Twill has a diagonal weave. Twill feels a bit heavier than the Poplin. It is structured, and one of my personal favorites for dresses requiring woven fabric (i.e., a shift dress). Great for moderate or cooler weather clothing.

Poly Satin Chiffon: Poly(ester) Satin Chiffon is a delicate, very light-weight fabric (85gsm) made of 100% polyester. It woven, has no stretch, is silky feeling, and has a bright sheen to it. It is often used for blouses requiring a lightweight, woven fabric.

Double Brushed Polyester: Double Brushed Polyester (DBP) is a thin, lighter weight fabric with four-way stretch and great recovery. It is very stretchy and soft with a brushed texture on both sides of the fabric. Made of 95% polyester and 5% lycra, it is a popular option for leggings. Also a popular option for kids clothing. Not recommended for children under the age of 1 (or until child can regulate body temperature), however, due to the fact that it is not a breathable fabric. If you are looking for a comparable fabric that IS breathable, check out Bamboo Lycra or Bamboo/Cotton Jersey. 

Kids set made with Double Brushed Polyester

Set made with Double Brushed Polyester. Created and photographed by Jamie Parry of Clothing by Jamie.

Bullet Textured Liverpool: Bullet Textured Liverpool (commonly referred to as just Bullet) is a stretchy fabric made from 95% polyester and 5% lycra. Bullet has a unique riveted texture resembling bullets, and it is quite often used for headbands, headwrap bows, and similar. Bullet from PhDetour offers four-way stretch. It is a medium-weight fabric (250gsm) that can also be used for tops and/or dresses that will shine with this unique texture.

Headwrap bows made with Liverpool Bullet

Vinyl - Faux Leather: PhDetour Faux Leather is made of 70% PVC and 30% Polyester. It is 1mm thick, has minimal stretch, and offers a leather-esque looking texture. It is an excellent option for bags, purses, backpacks, etc. The Faux Leather is shipped on rolls to prevent creasing. 

Waterproof Oxford: PhDetour Waterproof Oxford is a woven, canvas-like fabric made of 100% recycled polyester and backed with a special coating that offers waterproof properties. It is heavier weight and has no stretch. Waterproof Oxford is great for diaper pods, boxy bags, makeup bags, backpacks, lunch boxes, pencil cases, cord storage cases, and wet bags that do not require frequent washing. For anyone who is familiar with the old Sahara Fabrics/DSS Waterproof Oxford and looking for a replacement now that the company has closed, please be aware that PhDetour Waterproof Oxford is less structured and a bit thinner/lower gsm than the DSS Waterproof Oxford. Rest assured, it performs just as well--it just feels a bit different. Give it a try--I think you'll love it!

Waterproof Oxford Pic