It's been about 18 months since PhDetour opened, and in those 18 months, we have tried out 35+ fabric bases. The researcher in me craves data, so I analyzed all orders from last year and found that just 10 fabric bases represented over 92% of the items ordered. Said plainly, there are 10 fabric bases that were clear fan favorites, and the remaining 25 fabric bases I offered were just slowing down processing times. In my never-ending effort to increase efficiency, I made the decision to offer the 10 most popular bases at all times, and I will offer one additional "guest" fabric base each month. The "guest" base will change each month.
Okay, now that we got that out of the way, let's talk about the amazing fabric bases that are available to you in the PhDetour preorders.
Fabric preorders are submitted once per month on the 1st of every month. The turn-around-time (TAT) on preorders is right around 8 weeks from the day the preorder is submitted (on the 1st). The cutoff for preorders is the last day of the month at 11:59pm CST.
Lighter Weight Organic Cotton Lycra (CL): Our lighter weight organic cotton lycra is made of 95% organic cotton and 5% Lycra, and it is 220gsm. The 220gsm organic CL is a versatile fabric base, great for lots of different uses, and one of the most popular fabric bases for children's clothing, especially in warmer weather climates. It is a knit fabric with four way stretch and very good recovery. It is breathable and easy to work with. A great fabric base to learn with if you are just starting out!
Medium/Heavy Weight Organic Cotton Lycra (CL): Our medium/heavy weight organic cotton lycra is made of 95% organic cotton and 5% Lycra, and it is 250gsm. It is a bit heavier than the 220gsm CL and conveys a feeling of impressive quality! The organic CL is a popular option among several small shop owners whose customers prefer an organic fabric option. The organic CL is a versatile fabric base, great for lots of different uses, and a popular fabric base for children's clothing. It is a knit fabric with four way stretch and very good recovery. It is breathable and easy to work with. A great fabric base to learn with if you are just starting out!
Organic Cotton French Terry: Our Organic Cotton French Terry (often abbreviated as CFT) is 300 gsm, composed of 95% organic cotton and 5% Lycra, and has 4-way stretch. It is excellent for hoodies, sweatshirts, sweatpants, and other cold weather apparel. It is also my go-to fabric for fitted diapers. While still soft, it is not as soft as our Bamboo/Cotton French Terry, but has the great structure you want in heavier duty garments.
Organic Cotton Poplin: Organic Cotton Poplin is a lightweight, woven fabric, which means it has no stretch. Poplin is made from 100% organic cotton and is 120gsm. Poplin is an excellent option for warm weather clothing for adults and children alike. It is soft and breathable, and more structured as opposed to drapey. Great for dress shirts (i.e., button-downs) and other warmer weather clothing that calls for woven fabrics.
Bamboo/Cotton Jersey: Bamboo/Cotton Jersey (BCJ) is one of my favorite apparel fabrics for items that require a fabric with both drape and nice weight. It is very soft, breathable, and has four way stretch. Less structure and more drape than our Organic Cotton Lycra. An excellent option for all ages, newborn-adulthood.
Bamboo/Cotton French Terry: The Bamboo/Cotton French Terry (BCFT) is soft and versatile, and great for sweaters, cardigans, soft joggers, and preflats. It is composed of 65% Bamboo, 30% Cotton, and 5% Lycra, and offers four-way stretch. It is the perfect balance of structure and softness, and one of my go-to cooler-weather apparel fabrics.
Luxe PUL: The Luxe PUL is a water-resistant fabric that is very frequently used in cloth diapers and other reusable cloth goods. The Luxe PUL is comprised of polyester interlock, digitally printed with a cute design or color, that is adhered to a 1mil TPU film with a PUR hot melt adhesive. The Luxe PUL is thinner and stretchier (2-way horizontal stretch) than the Classic PUL. It is great for diapers, (especially newborn diapers), "waterproof" clothing items, menstrual pads, snack bags, bowl covers, etc. It is 160gsm and made from 100% polyester and 1mil TPU.
Classic PUL: The Classic PUL is a water-resistant fabric that is very frequently used in cloth diapers and other reusable cloth goods. The Classic PUL is comprised of polyester interlock, digitally printed with a cute design or color, that is adhered to a 2mil TPU film with a PUR hot melt adhesive. The Classic PUL is more structured and less stretchy than the Luxe PUL. It is great for diapers, wet bags, diaper pail liners, snack bags, bowl covers, bags, etc. It is 160gsm and made from 100% polyester and 2mil TPU.
Stack of diapers made with Classic PUL, made and photographed by Lyndsi Leon of Little Leon Co.
Here is a graphic that compares and contrasts the Luxe PUL and the Classic PUL
Athletic Wicking Jersey (AWJ): AWJ is a fabric with stay-dry properties, meaning it is designed to "wick" the moisture away from the wearer. As such, it is a very popular fabric choice for the inside of cloth diapers, the tops of cloth diaper inserts and reusable menstrual pads, and athletic wear (e.g., gym shorts, workout tanks, etc). It is 140gsm, 100% polyester, and has two-way horizontal stretch. AWJ is a light-weight, super smooth, slinkier fabric that is cool to the touch and has a dimpled texture.
Athletic Wicking Jersey. Photo courtesy of MJ Maier of Atelier Koch.
Squish: Squish is double sided, stretchy minky. It is super soft and plush on both sides of the fabric and has great four-way stretch, which makes it an option for the *softest* blankets and clothing (hoodies, pajama pants, etc...). Squish is 350gsm and made from 95% polyester and 5% lycra. Squish should not be used on newborns or young babies (until they can regulate their body temperature) because it is not a breathable fabric.
Blanket made of Squish fabric by Twinkie Tush Customs. Photo courtesy of Twinkie Tush Customs. https://twinkietush.com/